Visa runs are the equivalent of doing taxes for the chronic traveller, that pesky duty that every now and then needs to be done. After ninety days in Buenos Aires we did our first visa run to Colonia de Sarmiento, Uruguay, a town with stagnant charm and deafening peace. The pictures posted earlier will give you a better idea than anything I can say.
In Argentina you won’t be short of visa run options, neighbouring Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Paraguay, and Uruguay (click for entry visa requirements) are a bus/boat ride away. Since we did ours from BA, this post is focused on the options available in Uruguay.
- Buquebus: In a fancy terminal in the North end of Puerto Madero you can catch a boat to Colonia or Montevideo. Additional bus links within Uruguay and to Brazil are available. The cheapest round trip would be in the slow ship (about 3 hours) to Colonia de Sarmiento for AR$198. The 1 hour boat costs a little more.
- Colonia Express: Services Colonia de Sacramento from BA for AR$38 each way (if you purchase a month in advance). The terminal is in a dodgy area so take a cab on your way there. Their boats are small and can be banned from navigating if winds are strong (the carpet and seats also smell like wet puppy).
- Lineas Delta and Cacciola both leave from Tigre (Super Meh). Cacciola offers transfers from BA. Travel with them at your own risk.
- Bus to Montevideo: $150/$160 each way. Recommended only if you have a passion for self-inflicted pain, or extremely prone to sea-sickness. Takes 9 hours and costs the most. Go figure? Operators covering this route leave from Retiro bus station.
Industrious scabs that we are, we purchased the cheapest fare with Colonia Express more than a month in advance, but the return cheap fares were sold out. We still managed to get 2 return tickets
for AR$210. During our first night in Colonia wind speed rose to 70 kph and we had to stay an extra night as our boat was stuck in Buenos Aires.
After much arguing and aggravation with the teenagers in charge of the PR of Colonia Express a refund was given, and a full fare in an over sold Buquebus ensued.
If you manage to get the cheapest option with Colonia Express, do it. Otherwise, Buquebus is worth the extra bucks. But whichever line you choose, get some booze on the duty free.
Jokingly abused as an express port for visa renewals by long term BA lovers, Colonia deserves a little more respect. With a history from 1680, UNESCO had some faith and slapped a heritage listing on the oldest town in Uruguay. A dilapidated, riverside kind of heaven for architecture junkies. Our vote: If you’re looking for a wild time you’re in the wrong place. Maybe it gets interesting on the weekend? Otherwise its a quiet and quirky step back in time. k&a
Disregard tango shows and cowboy extravaganzas. Visiting Argentina while the football season is on, and not going to a match, is akin to traveling back in time to a French port before penicillin was invented, and not getting an STD.
Argentina is mad about football. Every weekend, one hundred teams spread over five divisions play fifty matches, add to that the local and international tournaments played during the week. Greater BA is home to fourteen of the twenty teams that play in the first division. And odds are that any local you meet has pledged lifelong support to one of those teams. Such is the reach of the game around here.
So if you decide to follow my advice and get that shot of penicillin, er, tickets for a football match, it’ll be a mission to decide which of all the matches to attend. Ideal teams to watch for a one off experience would be Boca Juniors or River Plate. Now, if you feel self-conscious by glory whoring, or you want a team closer to you, or a team with colors you like more, or just whoever is leading the table, this wikipedia entry will provide fixtures, location of venues,and league standings.
Because clubs look after their members first and rarely worry about non-members, and because any match worth attending is an instant sell-out, purchasing the tickets can be either expensive or tricky. Expensive if you decide to buy a ‘football experience package’ and tricky if you do what a sensible scab would, and that is, scalping.
‘Football experience packages’ can be found all over the net, your hotel/hostel desk would have dozens of flyers advertising them, even Boca Juniors operate their own tours. You can expect to pay greenbacks, and lots of them. Of course, you’ll be picked up from wherever you ask them to, ushered to your very own seat, and lovely senior citizens surrounding you will give you looks of dissaproval and cover their grandkids ears everytime you react like a normal person would when something interesting happens. They are well worth it if you don’t want to take any risks and you are cashed-up.
Scalping can be very tricky. You can try your luck online at craigslist, but now days all you’ll find there is more ‘football experience packages’. There is also deremate, a site that works exactly like ebay, but in Spanish. The last resort is to buy them near the venue before the match. Expect to pay anything from double to ten times the retail price, it all depends on how gringo you look, your negotiating skills, and how important the game is. If someone offers their seasonal pass, they might ask for a security deposit. Always remember that there are no guarantees when you scalp, and fake tickets (same as notes) are rife.
Once you have a ticket head to the venue. Two or three hours beforehand will do. Drink one or six beers in a shop or pub nearby. Ask around which street heads to the gate where you are allowed in, this is important since a lot of surrounding streets are closed on game days and looping around the stadium can delay you a good 40 minutes. Once inside find your seat (assuming you have a numbered ticket) or rub elbows with local hooligans until you get a spot you feel comfortable in.
Jump and shout as much as you want. Enjoy. This might be the best cultural experience you can get in Argentina.
After the game walk back as much as you feel comfortable walking. Driving or taking a bus/cab/subway near a venue will be frustrating because of the traffic. Add one or six more beers to the walk.
Kris and I, glory whores that we are, went to Boca Juniors vs. Velez Sarsfield in La Bombonera last night. Supporters sang a different song every ten minutes or so to the beat of a massive ensemble of drums and brass. We got stoned on second hand smoke. The locals won 2-1 and the crowd was electric. We celebrated as if we were locals and Kris even wore a Boca jersey.
No pictures were taken, but we hope you enjoy this video of the second Boca goal.
Buenos Aires permeates your senses and before you know it you’re hooked! Persuading the psyche like a smiling, virile dictator. What’s not to love? k&a
Buenos Aires is notorious for it’s myriad of restaurants, bars, theaters, museums, football stadiums and city dwelling delights. In short, nothing nature lovers could be expecting before they get here. But if nature beckons, there are a few choices not too far from BA. One of the most popular is Tigre. A small city that has mostly been absorbed by the development of BA, but manages to keep a distinct flavor.
Tigre consists of a river bank town and numerous islands, separated by murky brown channels that constitute the delta of the Parana river. The city itself is nothing you should fumble about; there is a tired 80′s style pink casino that looks like a giant barnacle, a theme park that kids would hardly be excited about, hundreds of stalls offering goods that you can get anywhere else, and some overpriced restaurants (almost everything is overpriced there).
The delta section of the city is a different story. You can opt to explore it on hour long cruises that go for 25 to 50 local pesos. Or catch the different boat lines that locals use as public transport (up to AR$20). You’ll get to see riverside mansions and makeshift homes, stop at a few restaurants, explore a couple of islands, or even stay at one of the bungalows for rent.
But that is not going to convey the real beauty of the place. The Parana delta is just a part of a larger ecosystem, and I’ll take the freedom to lecture you a little bit about it.
The Parana delta heads to the La Plata river, that aside from being a river, is also an immense estuary that funnels to the Atlantic ocean the confluence of dozens of streams, Paraguay and Uruguay rivers, and the aforementioned Parana. La Plata is also the widest river in the world, with 220 breathtaking kilometers at its widest point. The drainage basin of the River Plate (hence the football team’s name), is large enough to collect water from places as remote as the South of Bolivia. It is also home to endemic species of turtles and dolphins.
The river constitutes most of the boundary between Argentina and Uruguay, with roughly one hundred kilometers of coast on each side. Throughout history, major cities have sprung up on either side, and its waterways have been a major driving force in the development of the region, facilitating trade and smuggling. To say the least, the river is of insurmountable ecological, political, and economic importance in the region.
OK, enough with the lecturing. My point is that going to Tigre for a day or two is mostly a waste of time, energy, and resources. If you really want to soak up the place and enjoy the beauty of it, rent a house for a week or so (there are plenty advertised on local boards and papers), make sure the house includes a boat of some sort (taxi boats are expensive), and take the time to explore as many waterways as you want (namely the ones where big boats can’t go through), and when at home, pursue whatever activity you are into. After all, you’ll have your own island.
You can get to Tigre by train in about an hour from Estacion Retiro for AR$1.35. You can also rent a car, take a bus, or cab, but who wants to deal with traffic?
More information about Tigre can be found on the city council’s website (Ugliest. Website. Ever. Visit at your own risk). This is the area on Google Maps.
South America often gets a stern wrap about safety, especially for single female travellers. And it’s fair enough to be cautious. I have just been refreshingly reminded that wandering around this continent can also be hassle free if you keep a few things in mind.
Recent inspiration comes from a 50 plus Aussie lady who has just spent a solo month exploring Brazil. After travelling for two months before that with her daughter, they ventured through several countries on the continent and had no dramas. In fact they could only talk about how kind, respectful and friendly both men and women have been to them. A mother and daughter wandering about in such a family oriented destination was met with respect.
From my own single jaunts I have learned to try and keep these things in mind:
Do your research – Sticking to the popular places of any country will mean safety in numbers. Researching what the current political climate and destination warnings are is also a good idea. The Australian Government website errs on extreme caution. Looking up travel posts on line to read about the current situation from other travellers feels more accurate to me. The Thorn Tree Forum is a popular place to check in. Another good resource for women in particular is Wanderlust and lipstick.
Respect the local culture – It sounds basic, but plenty of people seem to forget that the fashion of their country isn’t appreciated everywhere. Flashing your muffin top thong around won’t do you any favours.
Don’t get legless – No one is saying you can’t have fun, but getting wasted at a local bar and wandering home alone is dumb. Get drunk in your hostel if you really feel the urge, or head out with some people who can get you home in one piece.
Sleep with the ladies – There are places to stay that have rooms for women only. If you still want to sleep in a budget dorm and know you won’t wake up with a ‘friendly stranger’ then there are some good options online here.
Look drab – Chances are you will never look like a local, but if you dress like you just won the lottery you could attract unwanted attention. If you look poor, it’s more likely you will be treated that way and left alone. Keep your expensive camera, mobile phone and guide book on the low down.
Travel light – If you can carry all your gear easily you won’t need to ask anyone for help. Better still, if it fits under your seat for long journeys you can keep everything close. Chucking your massive bag on the roof increases the chance of losing your load.
Pack some common sense – If Julio invites you to swim after dark at a Brazilian beach and you have downed 5 beers it’s probably not a good idea. It’s also worth splitting your money in a few places in case you get the light finger treatment. Likewise, leaving your wallet sitting on the cafe table or your bag slung over the back of a chair doesn’t really add to your street cred.
Learn some nice words – If you can mumble a few polite niceties in the local language you will be treated with more respect. It might even get you invited in for a meal with some local mamas. Manners and the appreciation of making an effort to speak Spanish go a long way.
Realise that manly attention is de riguer – You really aren’t that special – men the world over will call out to women to get a reaction. Aussie men are excellent at it, Egyptians waver between hilarious and annoying, and Latin men love to appreciate women in their own way. Reacting with anger doesn’t help you much, ignore the attention and realise it’s all part of the ride.
Don’t be shy – It doesn’t take long to realise that there are plenty of other people in the same boat.Long periods of time solo can be peaceful, but when you need to chat to people – it’s fair to say – that they are often in as much need for company as you are. Inventing some opening lines that don’t just parrot the usual ‘Where are you from?, Where have you been? How long are you travelling for?, Where are you going next?’ would be far more interesting for everyone!
Tell someone where you are - If you think you are in a dodgy area make sure you tell someone, like the hostel staff, what you’re thinking of doing. They can keep an eye out for your return or give you accurate advice on safety. Most hostels can tell you which dark alleys to avoid.
Cab it – Never jump in a cab on the street. Plenty of people have been caught out by random taxis taking them to the wrong place and relieving them of all their money en route. If you call and book it’s much safer.
Hire a friend - Some places in South America can be enjoyed with a reputable guide. You get local knowledge and hopefully feel protected along the way. Get some references before you rush in. This website has heaps of general female oriented travel information, including guide recommendations around the world.
Go with your gut - If something feels weird or uncomfortable don’t do it. Female intuition is well quoted for a reason. Being too paranoid doesn’t fare well either, people sense fear a mile away. Bad stuff happens all over the world, often the most dangerous situation can be at home where you feel comfortable.
I’ve done all the wrong things over the years; lost my luggage, had my passport stolen, stupidly accepted a spiked drink, and regularly felt completely lost. But the feeling of being deliciously independent and seeing the world at your own pace is well worth any challenges along the way. All you can do is jump in!
I woke up this morning feeling like I had spent the night sucking on a car exhaust pipe. Seriously. I must have had a good time.
After a year together it didn’t take much arm twisting to convince Andres that a good night out was in order. Somewhere with cool tunes and liquid bubbles. Come on down Uni Club.
We arrived at 11pm, but it still wasn’t late enough – doors open just before midnight. The dark space fills up fast with a mixed crowd of dread locked locals and preened salsa chicas. Combined with some eye damaging laser lights it feels like a cross between a nineties disco and a rasta gathering.
Wednesday is Latin Jam night but I could have sworn it was Reggae night from the thick concoction of ganga posing as air. Combined with some heavy smokers, the only downside to the venue being the ability to breathe. If you wanted to get second hand stoned this place has the goods.
The music was incredible. Big salsa tunes from the 10 piece band got everyone jumping. Andres busted out some impressive Colombian moves he’d been keeping up his sleeve. Salsa lessons at home are on the list.
Before we leave BA we’re keen to road test Afro Mondays and Reggae Fridays.
Uni bar is worth a shameless plug: Where Guardia Vieja 3360 Nuevo Circuito Abasto Phone 4867 6764 Cost 15 pesos Online here
When an Irishmen says to you “This is the best bar I have ever been to in my life” you should pay attention!
La Catedral is one of those places that you feel you are in a dream state. As a tourist you should probably respect the voyeuristic dance perspective you are lucky enough to be allowed in to. It’s mostly for locals, or tourists that can keep their enthusiastic mouths shut.
We arrived on a Tuesday night around midnight, after the tango classes where well finished. Tuesday being the best night for local indulgence. Dancing till sun rise being the norm.
Classical string instruments, traditional attitude, nuevo style and full tango respect. The dancing is dead sexy.
The style is scruffy cool – mismatched furniture, molten candle light and well loved corner lounges that greet you through the crimson velvet curtains. Service at the bar is lined with an efficient, surly attitude.
A giant red heart sways above the wonky timber dance floor. Antique art surrounds the dingy walls – the eau de dust adding to the ambience. There is no pretence of grandeur at this local milonga. It’s probably being held at what once was a high school gym, being hired out at night to cover the utility bills.
Where 4006 Sarmiento and Medrano, Almagro Call 15 5325 1630 When Classes 8pm and 10pm Mon-Sat; 7.30pm and 9.30pm Sun. Milonga (cut loose tango) after classes till 5am Cost AR$10-$20
After a few months we’ve explored the tango scene a little, but if you go to one local tango den in BA make it this one. More pics can be found at Photo dump numero ocho.
Go there!
A nasty crust is creeping in and signs of chronic slackers disease are beginning to show. Not quite bed sores from faffing around, but clear symptoms of joblessness. Still being unemployed was not the plan.
After struggling to find work, and not even holding out for quality work, we have had to find ways to keep the grey matter amused without going insane. Plenty of people can happily do nothing. I personally struggle with the concept of not having a list of things to be done, places to see and people to visit. After being in BA for over two months, madly exploring every corner, optimistically applying for jobs and still nothing, it’s time to face the music.
So in solidarity with all the unemployed people out there, we thought it might be a good idea to share some ideas on feeding your brain while making the most of your endless time. After you’ve played outside, these online links should keep you thinking. Legal indoor fun in true cheap ass fashion.
10 Star Movies or Hulu - If you ever wanted to watch the complete series of Law and Order SVU – uninterrupted – here’s your big chance. Free movies and tv shows of varying quality. Luckily you have the time to endure the pop ups and painful streaming.
Chess - Who needs friends to play with when you’ve got chess online. Gratis.
Live Mocha – If you always wanted to learn to speak Urdu or Kurdish then jump on this site.
Project Gutenberg – First eBook publisher. No fee or registration required. Quality stuff for the literate panhandler.
Reddit - Rub nerd brains with the masses, get informed, share useless information and have a laugh.
The Traveler IQ Challenge – Race against the clock with a geography challenge. Learn the names of all the places you can’t afford to go to – yet.
We have a month to wait out our lease before we can shift job searching locales. Time to do less Becky James!
Industrious scabs that we are, we purchased the cheapest fare with Colonia Express more than a month in advance, but the return cheap fares were sold out. We still managed to get 2 return tickets
